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olddrummer Profile
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Registered: 04-2007
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posticon CAUTION When using buffing compounds!! READ


I've mentioned on another post that I use a White Rouge buffing compound and a cotton flannel buffing wheel to polish the hardware on my drum kit. BE ADVISED you should do some research when using these materials, or you could wind up with very nice copper hoops, and shiney brass hardware! emoticon I have a 1hp electric motor belt driven to a double ended shaft and this is mounted in two pillow block greaseable bearings, with two v-belt pulley's. One for 1800 rpm for heavier metal removal, and the other larger pulley will spin 3600 rpm for final buff, such as what I've already mentioned. Run the cotton flannel buff wheel at 3600 rpm, you apply the White Rouge compound to the spinning buff very often, then with a light pressure working the part back and forth or side to side, which ever position you need. Do not hold the part in one spot on the buff wheel or it will heat up, and you will go thru the chrome. If you choose to try these materials, I HIGHLY suggest you call [sign in to see URL], and ask them for their professional guidence. They are more than friendly, and very very helpful. They can set you up with everything you need to get started. I'm plugging for them only because of my great experience with them over the past several years. I would be happy to answer any questions you might have, however THEY ARE the Pro's here!! emoticon olddrummer

Last edited by musicbybj, 5/21/2007, 11:42 am
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tommykat1 Profile
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Re: CAUTION When using buffing compounds!! READ


Oldrummer, are you talking about really pitted parts here?

I know this post goes back a ways, but I would think that jewelers rouge on chrome wouldn't be necessary, as chrome cleans up with good polishes--such as Blue Magic--available from auto parts stores. That is, unless it is pitted, which would mean other, deeper problems exist.

I use jewelers rouge to polish aluminum so that it almost becomes as bright as chrome, then finish it with Blue Magic. Blue Magic is non-abrasive, which is what you want to use on Chrome. Chrome plating itself is so thin and hard that it's either there, or it's gone, if you try to polish it with an abrasive compound.

If you have to grind out the pits, you've lost your finish anyway, and you'll have to take the pieces to the chrome platers after you've ground out the rust. Because of pollution laws, these establishments can be hard to find. Look for somebody who re-plates cadmium, brass and chrome for antique cars. You can bring in a box of goodies to be plated and they'll wait until they have a large run and send yours through at the same time. The cost is pretty reasonable.

And when you get your parts back, they will look brand spanking new.
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rhythmace Profile
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Re: CAUTION When using buffing compounds!! READ


Anyone ever try Rust Cure on rusted chrome. I mean using a small paint brush to dab it on. Rust Cure is phosphoric acid, and it binds with rust to make a light colored area from the rust. I an looking for a small rust cure bottle right now. I don't need a huge one like I am finding. Anyway, I thought it would look better than rust and also stop the rust from spreading. Ace
5/3/2010, 11:14 am Link to this post Send Email to rhythmace   Send PM to rhythmace
 
tommykat1 Profile
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Re: CAUTION When using buffing compounds!! READ


You'll still be left with the pits, unfortunately.

"The Must For Rust" is a good product I've used for heavily rusted steel fasteners.
5/3/2010, 11:49 am Link to this post Send Email to tommykat1   Send PM to tommykat1
 


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