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Registered: 03-2013
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More on B&B lug repairs.


I’m a new ROF member (please see my entry in the new members section) and recently completed a restoration of my Rogers set, including a repair of the B&B lugs. Tommy’s tutorial on how to repair B&B lugs is excellent and quite comprehensive.

Here are a few things I’ll share from my B&B lug repair experience:

Latex or non-latex surgical/examination gloves - You’ll be doing a lot of kneading and forming when using Propoxy 20 or another type of plumber’s epoxy, and it is very difficult to remove from your fingers. I found that using latex or non-latex (if you are allergic to latex) surgical/examination gloves (not rubber or latex kitchen gloves, which are too thick) was quite helpful and allowed much dexterity. They are available at any drug store. Get the smallest size that fits snug on your hands, so they aren’t loose and flappy at the finger tips. Rubbing a little baby powder on your hands first aids in getting them on and off easily. And, you’ll smell good.

Plumbers epoxy (NOT Putty), if Propoxy 20 not available – I could not find Propoxy 20 locally, so I used Ace Hardware’s Plumber’s Epoxy and it worked quite well. Remember to clean the inside of the lugs thoroughly with Acetone or Lacquer Thinner before application so the plumber’s epoxy adheres well. Also, remember plumber’s putty does not harden, while plumber’s epoxy does.

Cover lugs with blue painter’s masking tape – By first covering the exterior of the lugs with blue painter’s masking tape before applying the plumber’s epoxy (and JB Weld), it is easy to peel off, protects the chrome and makes clean-up a lot easier.

Embossing/stenciling tool – My fingers must not be as nimble as Tommy’s and I found I needed a larger handle on my embossing/stenciling tool. I made one out of a mirror clip, a small 12-24 x 1 round head bolt (that will screw into the tension rod insert), a 12-24 hex nut (for a spacer) and a tension rod insert. The hole of this particular mirror clip needs to be slightly enlarged to accept the bolt. The parts (excluding tension rod insert) are available at Ace Hardware. Please see photo.

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Allow room for tension rod insert “play” – Before you dismantle a lug, notice that the portion of the tension rod insert extending through the lug hole has just a slight bit of “play” or wiggle. I believe this is by design to accommodate lining up the threads with the tension rods when you reinstall your rims. Without this “play” or if your tension rod inserts are in too snug and/or at a slight angle, you may have difficulty screwing in the tension rods.

You can repair a repair – If you get a bit too much epoxy or JB Weld down in the lug end and shoulder and have trouble fitting in the tension rod insert or spring, or there is no “play” to the tension rod insert, you can remove some of the hardened epoxy or JB Weld with a Dremel tool and small cutting bit. Just be careful to not remove too much or you’ll defeat the purpose of the repair.
  
Practice first – Tommy mentioned this too, but I think it is worth repeating. If you have a couple old lugs that are beyond repair, or just something of a similar hollow shape, it’s a good idea to practice on a couple first. That way you can sort of get a feel for how to work with and apply both the plumber’s epoxy and the JB Weld, and especially how long it takes them to begin to set up.

I hope these suggestions help. They are pretty simple things, and perhaps obvious, but, I thought I would share them. Again, thanks to Tommy for paving the way. Good luck.
3/31/2013, 6:21 pm Link to this post Send Email to RogersSince60   Send PM to RogersSince60 Blog
 
tommykat1 Profile
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Re: More on B&B lug repairs.


Excellent suggestions, and thanks for posting, RS60.

Yes, some wiggle room is necessary; perhaps my post wasn't clear about that. You are correct about the need for some play when lining up the tensioners with the lugs.

I like the painter's tape idea, and, of course, gloves are a must because your hands are doused in putty and lacquer thinner. Note that some lacquer thinner on your fingers is like using water when modeling with clay: it keeps the Propoxy20 from sticking to your fingers, and also smooths up the finished product.

A related note: I have over five years (as of February) on my rebuilt lugs, and the drums are stored under tension. I just played them a few weeks ago.
4/1/2013, 9:53 am Link to this post Send Email to tommykat1   Send PM to tommykat1
 
RogersSince60 Profile
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Re: More on B&B lug repairs.


Tommy,
With the exception of emphasizing practicing on some lugs before beginning, I tried not to repeat anything you had covered so well. Please forgive me if I overlooked something.

I'm glad you agree on the wiggle room for the tension rod inserts. This is coming from someone who found out the hard way on a couple lugs. Thus, my post on how to repair a repair. "Necessity is the mother of invention."

The lacquer thinner on the fingers is a nifty idea.

I recall looking back through your posts and that it had been five years since you did your B&B lug repairs. February 2008, if I'm not mistaken. B&B lugs are so neat, I hope more Rogers owners follow your lead.
4/1/2013, 6:58 pm Link to this post Send Email to RogersSince60   Send PM to RogersSince60 Blog
 
grunta57 Profile
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Registered: 06-2015
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Re: More on B&B lug repairs.


Hi guys I'm repairing these lugs using glass fibre and epoxy resin and can replace the thread tabs with a complete shell that fits within the B&H B shell. The ability to allow the tension rod connectors freedom of movement is very important! Thanks for letting others know about this. I'm using thread inserts into the epoxy glass so even if the tabs are broken or completely gone I can still rebuild them. Let me know if you have any spare old broken lugs that I can buy to demonstrate and get some repairs and replacement parts initiated. In theory the shell within a shell idea will mean they are pre-cast to fit at an affordable price
6/15/2015, 2:38 pm Link to this post Send Email to grunta57   Send PM to grunta57 Blog
 


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